Tuesday, March 15, 2011

The Emanuel Ungaro label in Paris this morning

Giles Deacon, the British designer, delivered a fierce, sexual message with his second collection for the Emanuel Ungaro label in Paris this morning.

He unleashed tight black leather micro-suits, leather mini-dresses covered with loops of fine leather thongs, and skintight leather trousers, atop corset-bodices, all accessorised with thick leather "dog" collars, buckled in gold. See-through metallic lace slips skimmed the thighs, over black mini-knickers, and even on a sheer, black mid-calf dress, where the model's modesty was only just preserved with a few strategically-placed strips of black satin. "There is this idea that Paris is the city of love, but really it is the city of lust," said Deacon. "Mr Ungaro always said he dressed the mistresses, not the wives. I decided to do the same this season."

The wild, unbridled excursion included snarling wolves, birds of prey and giant eagles, exquisitely embroidered by Lesage, on the bodices of tight knits and jackets, and silver-encrusted talons, embroidered around waists. Silken, long gowns and short dresses were printed with enlarged impressions of an eagle's wing-span, in gleaming turquoise and gold, based upon photographs by Sølve Sundsbø. A black lace mini echoed the avian theme with its sleeves, trimmed with feathers. A selection of green tweed bomber jackets and miniskirts, and rose-pink and pale-green dyed fox jackets over silk dresses, were interspersed amongst the provocative overload, but even they were accessorised with the bondage-style leather chokers.

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