Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Xemex “Quarter” Avenue Watch Is Themed After Bell & Ross BR-01

The success of the Bell & Ross BR-01 series has spawned legions of copies from other manufacturers, both good and bad. The best of which are not specifically copies, but rather thematic reinterpretations of the look in another brands own style. This is exactly the case with the Xemex Avenue model number 2805.04, where designer Reudi Kulling imbues the iconic Xemex touch to the design idea.

All Xemex are the free moving lugs, straight lined number indicators, and hands of the watch. The font type of the "12, 3, 6, and 9" are graciously taken from the Bell & Ross BR-01 models and migrated well to this Xemex. Further, Xemex squared out the otherwise rectangle shape of the Avenue series to better represent the look of the BR-01. The placement of the round date hole is hearkens to instrument panel watches, but the round hole design (versus square) is also iconic of Xemex. The result is truly a nice melding of the design success of both Xemex and Bell & Ross.

The Xemex is sized smaller than the BR-01, which is a very large watch. Both share an automatic ETA movement, but the Xemex Avenue uses a ETA 2824-2 versus a 2894. Xemex offers both a black crocodile strap or a rubber strap based on whether you wish to opt for a more formal or sporty persona for your wrist wear. You can even get this model Xemex Avenue ref. 2805.04 in Xemex's own cream colored yellow (for the dial), but I'd stick with the attractive black face.

Xemex watches are a good value and constructed well. The company offers automatic and quartz models, both with the same high level of quality and finish. Metals used are impressive, and detailing is crisp. Having a Xemex watch myself, I can easily attest to this, and would happy to own such an interesting model as the Xemex "Quarter" Avenue 2805.04. Prices range from $1000 - $ 2,500 depending on configuration and where you purchase them.

Monday, September 5, 2011

Bell & Ross BR03 Watch On Metal Bracelet Sighted

It finally happened, Bell & Ross is giving everyone's favorite square watch a metal bracelet. Actually, let me clarify. They are testing it out on the BR03 watch models. Seen here is one of the first of these types... maybe the first ever in a retail store. It is the BR03-92 watch with the new style metal bracelet that you can now get in addition to the rubber or other straps available with this watch line.

Bell & Ross does not currently have any plans to give the larger BR01 (46mm wide) watches a bracelet at this time. They are merely seeing how it goes with the smaller BR03 (42mm) models. I do like the look. It seems to make sense and feels like a visually comfortable fit. Like the straps, the bracelet tapers from the case down to the clasp a bit so that it does not feel unwieldy on your arm. The design is a bit retro, and the bracelet is done with a brushed finish on the top side, with polishing on the sides I believe. The inner side of the bracelet has a middle link that holds the larger links together. You get that nice clean vertical link look on the outside of the bracelet. The bracelet moves nicely and is flexible enough for what you'll need to do with it.

There is a folding doubling locking deployment clasp with a Bell & Ross signature on it. It all works pretty well. Bell & Ross proved to me that they could do a great bracelet with the one they have on the Geneva series of watch. The one here on the BR03 has sort of the same feel to it, light and airy, but well made. Not super heavy or dense like some sport watch bracelets. I have a feeling that the steel metal bracelet is going to be more of an option in the near future as more stores get these pieces, but it could very well be slow. I didn't even see images of the BR03 on a bracelet online before I saw it at the Lussori watch store in Carmel, CA. Even Bell & Ross themselves didn't tell me about it, and they are always so good about telling everything that is going on. Sure there is a press release about some high society thing that they sponsor, but you get a new bracelet where there never was one, and no one knows what to say about it?

Bell & Ross BR01-96 And BR01-97 Limited Edition Commando Watches

More with the gray watches it seems. I've been writing about this trend pretty extensively on Luxist.com, but it has finally come to Bell & Ross. Actually I knew this since Baselworld back in March, but only now it connected with me that this is all part of the gray watch conspiracy - and watch companies are always bitching about the gray market. Irony?

These two new pretty watches are part of a limited edition of just 500 pieces each and are part of the Commando watches that Bell & Ross will offer. Commando meaning gray in this instance. Maybe this is the perfect urban combat camouflage watch? We are familiar with the models as well. These are the big date and power reserve versions of the Bell & Ross BR01, or rather the BR01-96, and the BR01-97. The dials also make it clear that the watches are part of a limited edition. The Big Date has an automatic ETA 2896, while the power reserve model has an ETA 2897.

The black on the hands and indexes contrast well with the gray color dial, and are also lume covered to glow in the dark - pretty well. They come with a rubber strap or a synthetic fabric material strap also in gray. Aside from the concrete gray look of the watches and the fact that they are part of a limited edition, there isn't much new to tell. There will only be 500 made of each, and I am sure they will demand a bit of a premium over the non limited models. Now for the obligatory Commando movie poster shot to go with the Bell & Ross Commando watches.

Bell & Ross BR01-92 Gold Ingot Limited Edition Watch

Short post, but here the images say it all. If there was ever a gaudy watch that I wanted, it would be this watch. I typically shy away from euphemistically decadent watches such as this, but I am oddly drawn to the golden hues and texturing of this special limited edition watch from Bell & Ross. Take the extremely popular Bell & Ross BR01 series, make it out of gold, and make it after gold bars, and you have the Bell & Ross BR01-92 Gold Ingot. It is not just another gold watch, but a commentary on luxury itself. The entire 46mm wide case is constructed in 18k rose gold, and so are the hands, dial, and hour markers.

Special pyramid texturing on the dial really makes the watch special. Just a gold watch would be one thing, but this is a watch with a gold personality, and that is not just me sounding cheesy. It retains everything you like about the Bell & Ross instrument look and appeal. I like how the gold hands are skeletonized so that you can see the gold underneath. The numerals are gold on gold, for that golden look. Gold screws stand in for the typical steel, actually I don't need to mention all this, you get the point - GOLD!

Inside is the same Swiss ETA 2892A2 automatic mechanical movement powering the watch, while the shiny black alligator strap works well. I think a brown strap would look even a bit nicer against the rose gold, don't you think? The Bell & Ross BR01-92 Gold Ingot Limited Edition watch is available in select place to select people. This is the gold watch to own for people who would not otherwise shell out for a gold watch but suddenly must do so. There you have it, don't make me yell "gold" again.

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 & 126 Heritage Watches

If I could go back and add an additional watch to my Top 5 watches at Baselworld 2010, it would be this new collection from Bell & Ross. Last year, one of their hottest models was the BR01-92 Instrument Heritage (that I wrote about here). It had a new (old) type of vintage aircraft cockpit dial design and a tan leather strap that looked like it was made out of baseball glove leather. People loves the pieces, and it finalized Bell & Ross's trifecta of aircraft instrument themed watches (though there will be more I am sure). While not the subject of this article entirely, I have placed an image here of the new Bell & Ross BR03-92 Heritage watch that is in the smaller 42mm wide BR03 case, as opposed to the 46mm wide BR01 case. While the BR03 Heritage was technically announced last year, this is the first time I have seen it. One change for the BR03 Heritage is that the leather strap is free from the "branding" that the BR01 Heritage watch had.

The greater stuff is the Bell & Ross Vintage BR Heritage watches - especially the Carbon version. This is a round port of the BR03 Heritage watch in a 41mm wide round, carbon colored black case. There is also the non Carbon version, which has a 41mm wide polished steel case, and slightly different dial and hands. Each of the styles comes in 123 and 126 versions. The 123 models have three-hand automatic Swiss ETA 2892 movements, while the 126 models have modified ETA automatic chronograph 2894 movements. I wrote about the Bell & Ross Vintage BR 123 & 126 Heritages watches on vipwatch-jp.com here.

Each has deliciously simple dials that ooze style and restrained masculine good taste. My top pick if the Vintage BR Heritage 123 Carbon. Amazingly comfy and bold dial that to me feels like a fresh alternative to many Panerai watches. Just a simple thing like putting the watch in a round case did so much. Note the vintage style curved edge sapphire crystal. The combo of the matte black light, tan colored leather is excellent.

Bell & Ross Vintage Original And Officer Watches For 2010

I previously wrote about the new for 2010 Bell & Ross Vintage Heritage collection and Vintage Original watches here. Though at the time I wasn't sure of their exact names (not sure if Bell & Ross did either). In that post I discussed the Bell & Ross Vintage Heritage BR 123 and 126 watches, as well as the beige colored Vintage Original 123 and 126 watches. By the way, "123" stands for a watch with a three-hand with sub seconds automatic containing a Swiss ETA 2895, while "126" is for models with a 2894 automatic chronograph movement. In that post I also showed some of the older Bell & Ross watches that this new collection is supposed to be a "revision" of.

The classic Bell & Ross Vintage and Geneva models are beautiful, and very well designed. They are only marred by their size - which is about 36-37mm in width. These new watches are 41mm wide - that with their thin bezels wear 'large' on the the wrist. In this post I am showing off images of the new Bell & Ross Vintage Original Black, and the yet to be formally announced dressier version of the watch that might be called the Vintage Geneva. I presume this as it is "vintage" in the sense it is a thematic re-issue of a former Bell & Ross watch, and is thematically similar to the Geneva. This means that Bell & Ross might clarify the name later, but "Vintage Geneva" 123 and 126 wouldn't be a terrible name.UPDATE: The watches I presumed would be called "Geneva" pieces are actually going to be called "Bell & Ross Vintage Officer watches."

So when all these watches are finally available, the consumer will have at least 3 new 'Vintage' watch lines to choose from if they want a round Bell & Ross watch. No need to go into a lot of detail for the Vintage Original Black (and Beige) as I discussed them. I just wanted you to see the Black version here, and again show you the watch that it was based on. 41mm wide is perfect on the wrist and the shape of the case is lovely. A slightly more delicate, tasteful version of the BR01 case and dial, but of course not square. The amazing thing about the dials is just how legible they are - and attractive. In fact, I questions Bell & Ross co-founder and President Carlos Rosillo on why Bell & Ross designs are so successful. His answer was painfully simple, but an important lesson to any watch maker. "People look at Bell & Ross watches and immediately know why they like them." The point here is important. No education or explanation is required to appreciate these designs. Unlike many other watches they perhaps require years of horological interest or a presentation to understand what you are seeing - a Bell & Ross watch is going to be enjoyed by those who know nothing about watches. This I believe is the key to success behind all mainstream Bell & Ross timepieces.

Bell & Ross Diver 300 Chronograph Watch

Back in 2003, when the BR01 was a fresh pup, Bell & Ross released this Diver 300 Chronograph watch. There is actually a similar watch called the Bell & Ross Type Aeronavale (of which an image is placed here). The Diver 300 Chronograph is a great looking dive style watch that bridges a look between the modern versus old. True to Bell & Ros style, it is an effortlessly attractive watch with a simple presentation and an eye for details. Functional in feeling, the Diver 300 is a great looking daily wear.

The case is steel with a nice mixture of polished and brushed surfaces. It is 40mm wide, which might be too small for some, and perfect for others. The case is water resistant to 300 meters and has a sapphire crystal. I love how it looks on the metal bracelet. This specific bracelet is on a few other Bell & Ross watches and is truly fantastic. It is a bit hard to see, but the middle link is polished while the outside links are brushed. While the bezel on the Type Aeronavale is black on steel, the Diver 300 has an all steel engraved bezel. An interesting mix of an aviator and diver style bezel in design. When it comes down to it, this is in fact a hybrid between a diver and pilot watch. The case is steel with a nice mixture of polished and brushed surfaces. It is 40mm wide, which might be too small for some, and perfect for others.

You can tell that there are three versions of the dial. White, black, and black with white chronograph subdials. The watch dial looks great. Vintage looking font for the Arabic numerals, with all the necessary marks for easy reading. Lots of SuperLumiNova on the dial. the hands are an interesting mix between the two genres as well.