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Turn of the Century in a Skewed View

What has defined the last 20 years in fashion? Celebrity? Girls gone wild? Designer handbags? Visible lingerie? Platform shoes? Or none of the above, if you take a cerebral approach and trace the rise of minimalism, the Belgian and Japanese counterculture and the surviving splendor of haute couture. Fashion history is selective, and nothing proves it more than the second part of “The Idealized History of Fashion,” an exploration of how we have looked from the 1970s to today. The current exhibition, which is at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs and covers 1990 to the present, is as much a failure as the first installment was a triumph. Maybe distance makes the eye grow sharper. While the curator Olivier Saillard distilled the essence of the 1970s and ’80s, bringing fresh information with forgotten videos of early Yves Saint Laurent shows, his vision of these more recent years falls flat. Where is the fashion tension that pitted Prada’s sly sensuality and prim uniforms against Gucci’s sexual grand slam? Just one single dress — although it is a stunning white column with a keyhole cutout at the hip — illustrates Tom Ford’s renaissance of Gucci in the 1990s. Helmut Lang has a fair showing, but not of the designer’s signature multi-straps. Whereas there might have been a compare-and-contrast involving Lang and Martin Margiela, both of whom ultimately left their fashion houses, they do not occupy the same space. Of Jil Sander, one of the most powerful forces in 1990s minimalism, there is nothing at all. But this uneven exhibition is not entirely the fault of Mr. Saillard, a fine fashion historian, who has recently been tapped to head up the Musée Galliera in Paris, and where, from that museum’s enormous archives, he will put together an exhibition this year on Madame Grès. Ironically, it is the awareness of the importance of heritage by the major houses that is making the situation so difficult for museums. Mr. Saillard was refused any loans from Gucci or Jil Sander. He borrowed the keyhole dress from a Spanish museum. And Gucci gives a simple reason for its reluctance to take part in the Paris show: Its archive is going on display in a dedicated Gucci museum that will open in Florence this year — and its current donations are to a Chinese university.

Brown Should Look to Virginia, Not Unions, to Solve Budget Shortfall

California's governor is facing a dire budgetary situation and has proposed a 10 percent pay cut for all nonunion public employees in the state. This drastic move is needed, claims Governor Jerry Brown (D), in order to keep the state financially solvent and whittle away at the projected $25.4 billion shortfall. In addition to cutting pay of non-union state employees, Brown has proposed cuts to the state's social programs and proposed extending tax hikes for an additional five years. The reaction to Governor's plan has been lukewarm among legislators, many of whom realize the need to balance the state's budget yet are wary of deep cuts. Like California, the Commonwealth of Virginia also finds itself with a budget deficit, albeit not nearly as large. Virginia's Governor, Bob McDonnell (R), has proposed a series of measures to close a budgetary shortfall, including privatizing the state's liquor stores and shifting mandatory pension contributions to individual state employees. If state employees are forced to contribute to the state's pension plan, they would see a 2 percent pay reduction. Governor Brown's proposal to cut state employee pay is likely long overdue, as the average salary of a state employee in California is $57,563. Yet Brown's failure to extend pay cuts to unionized employees reeks of cronyism. California's unions spent nearly $25 million to get Brown elected, and if his plan is approved, it appears to be money well-spent. True reform would include the renegotiation of union contracts to levels more inline with their private and nonunion counterparts. Unlike California, Virginia's proposal is equitable and extends to all state employees regardless of their union status, and will therefore be more likely accepted by state legislators and the public.

Weather service forecasts mixed bag of precipitation Tuesday

It's not going to be pretty, folks. Tuesday's weather forecast has all the makings of a big wintry mess. A low-pressure system over the Gulf Coast is moving toward Virginia, and light snow is expected to start falling in the Richmond region around midnight tonight. By dawn Tuesday, the snow will turn to sleet, which will progress into a mixture of sleet and freezing rain by late morning or early afternoon, said Mike Montefusco, a forecaster with the National Weather Service Office in Wakefield. The finicky weather will likely make for bad driving conditions. "Travel is not going to be the most easy thing Tuesday morning," Montefusco said. He was predicting 1 to 3 inches of "a mixed bag of precipitation" before the storm moves north by nightfall Tuesday. The Virginia Department of Transportation began preparing roads with anti-icing chemicals Sunday in preparation for bad weather around rush hour tonight, said Dawn Eischen, spokeswoman for the Richmond district. She said crews would be working through the night. She said the brine solution prevents snow or ice from sticking to the road, which doesn't keep cars from slipping if they hit ice but makes it easier for crews to plow snow off the roadway. "When the storm starts, our crews will start working 12-hour shifts until the storm clears or we have the major routes cleared," she said.

Arizona gunman, reusable bags, ethical oil, helping seniors, inequality and more

Re Gunman’s Rampage – Jan. 10: I wonder how many of the hundreds of American mourners bowing their heads in silence today over the mass shooting in Arizona are packing a gun? After all it’s their constitutional right to do so, isn’t it? So we have a mass killing every few weeks in the land of the brave and the home of the free. That’s no reason to ban guns. They need guns to protect themselves from violent people. And anyway it must have been all that violent political talk that set off the gunman. It’s not his fault that he happened to have a gun handy when he lost his temper. Jim McDonald, Dundas, Ont. ... Just how many bullets does a semi-automatic hold? Am I the only one who finds it ironic that the U.S. is preoccupied with weapons of mass destruction in the hands of foreigners and yet is dead-set (almost by divine right) on allowing its own citizens to possess – and use them? Jerry Reed, Qualicum Beach, B.C. ... Sack of choice If reusable bags are environmentally unfriendly (Bag Woes – Jan. 10) because they are shipped from China, contain lead-based ink and require significant energy to be produced, well what are the alternatives? Shall we use the single-use bags, that have been manufactured and shipped from how far, cost how much energy to produce, and end up either in the landfills or in the stomachs of many dead land and marine creatures? Or if recycled – cost yet more energy to melt down and recycle into another use. Consumers should check where their bags come from and choose environmentally responsible sources, of which there are many now. Why throw the baby out with the bathwater? Sona Mason, Pearl River, N.Y.

Man target of repeated pranks, including flaming bag of dog feces

A Downers Grove man appears to have increasingly become the target of a number of pranks after police said a bag of assorted fruit was left on his front door and his yard was covered in toilet paper. According to a police report, the harassment began last August, after the man approached the son of a neighbor, asking him to clean up because he had left some plastic water bottles in the 7100 block of Matthias Road following a game of basketball, police said. The next night, someone rang his door bell and left a flaming bag dog feces on his front porch, police said. The man contacted his neighbor the next day, but the son said he did not have anything to do with the incident, a report states. In December, the man said someone covered his front yard in toilet paper. The latest incident occurred sometime around 9:30 p.m. on Jan 8, when someone left a bag of fruit – consisting of a banana with two tangerines taped to it – on his front porch, police said. The man was encouraged to call police the next time an incident occurs.

tudy Recommends Installing Air Bags on Private Planes

Federal air-safety investigators on Tuesday are slated to issue the first formal government nonbinding recommendations for installing air bags to save lives in private-plane accidents. The National Transportation Safety Board's groundbreaking study, according to people familiar with the details, is expected to outline the benefits of air bags in reducing fatalities and injuries when small aircraft crash. After assessing the performance of air bags in roughly two dozen such accidents over three years, they said, the safety board has agreed to call for more widespread use of air-bag technology on private planes. These planes typically carry less than half a dozen people, but some models can carry several more. Board members also appear ready to push for faster adoption of air bags on business aircraft, although that poses greater industry and operator hurdles. The study "looks favorably upon air bags" and staffers "are going to advocate for their use," according to Joseph Kolly, head of the board's office of research and engineering. Based on the study, the five-member board is poised to issue wide-ranging recommendations covering both newly manufactured and older models, according to people familiar with the matter. The safety board, which makes nonbinding recommendations, isn't expected to call for federal mandates for stepped-up air-bag deployment. Instead the board wants voluntary compliance. Only the Federal Aviation Administration has authority to mandate safety improvements. With approximately 1,600 general aviation accidents claiming roughly 500 lives each year across the U.S., experts believe many more crashes would be survivable with the help of air-bag technology. In an interview Monday, Mr. Kolly said air-bags provide "an opportunity to drive those [fatality] numbers down," adding that the safety board is in a good position "to make judgments about the technology" and its future applications. The majority of new general aviation models, including Cessna and Cirrus aircraft, already feature air bags that typically deploy from shoulder harnesses. In addition, the devices can be purchased as optional factory-installed equipment on many other models. The cost is around $2,000 total for installation on the two front seats. But in light of the huge existing fleet of older planes, overall less than 5% of the roughly 200,000 currently registered U.S. private aircraft have air bags. And those all stem from voluntary efforts by manufacturers and other groups. To accelerate installation of the devices—which have been embraced at a faster rate by airlines as a result of federal mandates—the board and other safety experts are now stepping up efforts emphasizing the importance of retrofitting private planes. Retrofits are more expensive, and so far private pilots generally have been slow to purchase the upgrades for older aircraft. Historically, safety-board members have been leery of the cost of calling for sweeping federal mandates affecting general aviation. Closely held AmSafe industries Inc., the primary supplier of air bags for general aviation, business jets and airliners, has sold about 19,000 air-bag devices for general aviation. Bill Hagan, the Phoenix-based company's president, said the uptake over just a few years "is a testament to the lifesaving benefit this technology offers" for pilots and passengers alike. Drawing parallels to the steady progression of safety enhancements in the automotive industry, Mr. Hagan said in an interview that buying a private plane in some ways is comparable to choosing a car. "You wouldn't buy one if it didn't have air bags," he said, and soon private pilots and airline passengers "will expect the same."